Here's some random snaps of things we've been up to lately - many related to autumn, of course. Even after 10 years of living here, I am still amazed by the way our lives are so intricately linked to the seasons in Latvia. So this post is obligatorily about chestnuts and acorns and woolly jumpers. As it should be in late October!

At Kūgures on the weekend we made a menagerie of chestnut and acorn beasts. Lots of fun.
The building bug has bitten my parents, and a month or so ago they embarked on a dream of mum's to extend the Kugs living room to a kitchen area out the back...

In the spirit of Charlie and Lola (who are Mikus' favourite storybook characters at the moment), the next picture is named: "We have absolutely new jumpers and we will never not ever behave when mum is taking a photo" (thanks Oma for the very warm and gorgeous hand-knitted masterpieces)

We are into watching the amazing race at the moment, and this next one is from portrait photoshoot for the boys when they enter as a team. Art direction by Tiss... I wouldn't want to mess with the guy in blue!

Another early-autumn classic for Latvia is mushrooming. We don't do too much of it, because we are scared of picking the wrong mushrooms, although it is great fun to go into the forest with basket in hand, looking for funghii treasure in the undergrowth!! The pic below is a pan of chanterelles (the most basic mushrooms, and most edible, and unmistakeable!) which we picked a couple of weeks ago when visiting a friend in the country.


And here's one for the cat/old chair/red kettle lovers out there...

Miaow!

Our house is moving along nicely. We've had a complete change of work crew for the interior work and it really does look like we will be in by Christmas. So much so, that I have begun to imagine actually moving in and LIVING in the area. Our suburb, Āgenskalns, is a wonderful suburb just over the river from the old town - a challenging mix of the most gritty Riga life, and the most interesting and charming. It is an eclectic blend of 100 year old stately wooden homes, set back from the street in beautiful gardens with old trees - many of which have now been gentrified; plain old wooden "boarding houses", which contain many small one room apartments that were built to house workers in the early 20th century; and multi-storey concrete monstrosities, locally called "hruschovskas". Many of the smaller streets have simple names like "Bee Street", "Flower Street", "Bell Street", "Pigeon Street", and they wind haphazardly around with no sense of planning. Some of them are still dirt.
The centre of Āgenskalns is a striking old red brick market hall, which hums with food traders and second-hand clothes stalls most days of the week. A tram line rumbles through the heart of the suburb, and it is not unusual for strangers to stop and talk to you on the street. Some of the richest, and also some of the most downtrodden people call Āgenskalns home.
On Saturday, before driving down to the country, we stopped in at our new place to check out our new front door and then did a stroll around the block, to get acquainted with the neighbourhood, eat some ice-cream and take in some autumn colour. We started here...










Every year in early autumn, you can see Latvians gathering all around the countryside for a special collective working bee - the potato harvest. I have never really understood how it all gets coordinated - it's not written in the newspaper, or advertised on the radio, but somehow everyone knows that THIS is the weekend for potato picking. Farmers gather together scores of relatives and everyone goes out on the field to dig up the fields and fill up large sacks with starchy tuber goodness. Driving in the country on that particular weekend you see people toiling away, with lots of sacks on the side of the field. This has always mystified me, how everyone seems to agree on exactly the same day/s to do the work, and I have always felt a bit of envy because I have never had a chance to take part in this autumn tradition. Over the years I have hinted to my neighbour, who has never offered for us to take part in digging up her massive field. I don't know why, perhaps it is because each helper usually gets to take home a sack of potatoes?

So this year, my ambitious mum decided that we also needed a field of potatoes. She and Normunds, our trusty farmhand helper planted a modest field in springtime (around 50 rows, which is small for most locals), and we have watched the potato plants growing this summer, concerned for colorado beetles (which didn't appear), the weeds and lack of rain. When you consider the low commercial price of "Latvia's second bread", you may wonder why bother to plant your own field - but there's something about growing them yourself. I've always thought that home-grown potatoes taste better than store-bought ones, probably totally psychosomatic, or maybe because home-grown spuds are usually completely organic? Our ones this year certainly are - no pesticides or weed killers touched our field, that's for sure.

As the summer progressed and things got cooler, our thoughts turned to the potato harvest. Speaking to a few friends, I was alarmed around a month ago to hear that their parents in the east and north of Latvia had dug up their potatoes early this year, because of the rain, they were already rotting in the field. Other friends commented that the "word on the street" (at the market) was that potato prices were going to rise sharply at the end of winter, because this year's harvest was small, and of a bad quality. Almost everyone I met, including friends my age and younger, had some extra information on the state of potatoes, the future of the harvest, the dangers ahead, the importance of knowing when to dig... So I turned to our neighbour, a veteran potato grower, strode over to our place and looked at our field, the state of the stalks, dug up a spud, saw that the skin was still able to be rubbed off, and pronounced that they should stay in the ground a couple of weeks longer.

So we waited. I sat in Riga, watching the weather reports, watching the rain coming down, wondering how the spuds were going. And finally, we decided that this was the weekend. It wasn't raining and things had got a whole lot colder. I notified friends who invited us to social events that we were unavailable because we had to pick potatoes, and this was met with knowing nods and understanding comments. "oh, if you've got to dig the potatoes, then of course you can't make it". On the drive out to Kugures you could see the fields full of people with their sacks and pitchforks. We had struck it lucky and picked the right weekend!

Yesterday we started. The ground was rock hard, and getting the spade/pitchfork in under the clump to pull out the spuds was tough. Nevertheless the "buried treasure" aspect of digging overtook all of us, and motivated us onwards, and by the end of the day over half the field had been dug up. Even the boys stuck around for an hour or so, digging up their own plants and scrabbling in the dirt to find all of the spuds. We loaded the potatoes into a wheelbarrow, and spread them out in the shed to dry. All up we dug up around three wheelbarrows full, which will probably not last us all winter, but we all feel bloody proud anyway! In a couple of weeks, after they have dried, they will be put into the basement, in a cool place out of the light, ready to be eaten.

Now I'm feeling a little smug, because I've finally taken part in a potato picking expedition, and there's a bucket full of small and damaged spuds in the kitchen, waiting to be grated for potato pancakes. What more could you ask for?

And this is just a good post-potato-picking shot, taken by Mikus. Love the red apples!

The first of September has rolled around again, and today we braved the streets with a dressed-up son and bunch of flowers in tow, ready to start a new school year. Tiss wasn't too happy to be starting school again - which kid ever is? Although I think that on the whole he enjoys school. We all attended the first assembly today, including Mikus, who seems quietly excited that he will also go to school there.
One year into it, I have come to a reserved conclusion that the school he is attending is a good one. The Rīga Central Applied Arts Primary School is a public primary school, located in the old town - just a few blocks from home. It was established in the 19th century as a German school for applied art, and a number of well-known Latvian artists and craftsmen have gone there. Today, although it is still located in the same building, it is a regular primary school in which kids are taught all of the required primary school curriculum, but also get a double of the required dose of art and home economics. Most of the after-school interest groups are art related - ceramics, animation etc, and it seems to attract a lot of parents/families with an interest in the arts generally.
One of the great things about the school is its size - there are less than 300 students, from grades 1 - 9. As a result, you get to know most of the teachers and staff, and feel very comfortable walking into the school and finding out whatever information you need, and organising a personal approach to your own situation is no problem. The location is amazing - for excursions the kids sometimes walk around the old town, and this is also where the older grades have "plein air" pracs for the first week of the school term. However, because it's an inner city school, there is no dedicated outdoor area for the kids, which is a stark contrast from my own memories of lunch hours at school, spent outside playing hopscotch, sitting in the shade, playing on the oval...
One interesting part of primary school in Latvia is that your "home room" teacher is the same one for grades 1 - 4. This can be a blessing, if you happen to land a good teacher, who you can become very attached to over the first four years of schooling. Unfortunately for us, Tiss got an older teacher who has lost her love of teaching, and uses Soviet pedagogical methods - through instilling a great deal of fear in her students, putting them down and yelling. We have been trying to teach Tiss to get a thick skin in regards to this treatment, which has been hard, and we are very grateful that she is not the only one responsible for teaching his class.
In terms of work, last year the kids were basically taught about form, rather than content. There was a great emphasis on handwriting skills, which I found bemusing, but trust that at some point in the next couple of years the focus will shift from HOW Tiss writes, to WHAT he writes...
Apart from these and a few other things, school is good. Tiss takes after Jem in terms of popularity, and is friends with most kids in the class. When we arrived this morning you could see a real joy in the children being reunited after the summer break, and it was exciting for both parents and kids alike to wonder what this year of school will hold. The days have become suddenly colder and dare I say it, I am almost looking forward to blustery autumn and winter days, when we can sit indoors and concentrate on studying, reading and learning.

Assembly in the courtyard - very inner city...

Can you see Tiss?

Someone had the great idea of taking a class photo with all the kids squinting in the sun

Afterwards we had a celebratory cup of tea with school friends

Jem and I are both on holidays. This is a pretty weird concept, as for years we were both freelancers who didn’t have officially designated holidays. Lately when we have taken leave, we have done so because were travelling abroad. This year, however, with the global economic crisis and home renovations and all, we are on holidays at home in Latvia. It has been wonderful. We have been at Kūgures and not done much. The last few days Jem has been building a bookshelf from recycled timber, while I have been meditating on preserving cucumbers. As you do.

This summer was stingy in the berry department, so I haven’t made much jam, but the heat must have for perfect conditions in greenhouses, because there is a flood of local cucumbers. I woke up two mornings ago to find a huge shopping bag crammed with cucumbers on our doorstep, left there by our neighbours who just don’t know what to do with their over-abundant crop. So I looked up pickling cucumber recipes and talked to a few preserving-guru friends, who recommended making “Latgales” salad - marinated cucumber slices with onion. So that’s what I’ve been doing. Slicing cucumbers and heating jars. And crossing my fingers, because I am taking a wild stab in the dark regarding pasteurizing the jars after they’ve been filled with the cucumber mixture – I guess they could be fermented, exploding messes in a week or so. We’ll see.

Jem’s project has been a success , and after many many hours measuring and cutting and sanding and drilling and measuring again and drilling some more and, dare I say, “finessing”, a handsome bookcase now adorns the corner of Kūgures living room. What will be his next furniture building project, I wonder?

Another thing we have done while on leave is go to a two day music festival. Of course these happened to be two stinking hot (yes – over 30 degrees, which is crazy hot in LV) days, whereby sitting in the sun listening to concerts and sleeping in an airless tent were a trial at times – but generally a good time was had by all. Music festivals are only just now beginning to take off in Latvia. You don’t get crowds as big as in Australia or other “western” countries, but it is a pleasure to see that younger Latvian music organizers are starting to give it a go. This festival mainly featured local bands and performers, but it had four stages going, the requisite activities for kids, weirdo art installations, dj booth, recycled clothing stalls and overpriced food vans.

I’ve got to admit I’ve always loved the music festival atmosphere and it was a pleasant surprise to see that the kids enjoyed it as much as we did. The night before Tiss and Mikus had put on a big whinge about not wanting to go, because they didn’t want to go to lots of concerts. But on the first night, when we stopped at 1am to have a snack before retiring to bed, I could see that my two overtired sons were hooked on the excitement of so much music and mayhem going on around them all at once. We had already seen fire twirlers, a friend’s bands play, a hard rock band in a big cleared-out hay barn, run into a crowd of crazy dancers at the front of a stage and danced madly along with them, played a bowling game and won prizes, been accosted by the evangelistic vegetarian crowd, posed for photos on a piece of interactive art, and pitched our tents in a huge apple orchard next to 100s of other tents. Of course, there were low points, for example when the DJ booth finally finished blaring over the camping area at 6am and Mikus woke up after only a couple of hours sleep - this was definitely not fun - but generally, we had a great time, and I am sure that the next time we suggest going to a music festival our sons will be hyped and excited at the prospect of what is to come!









Last week our extended family from LV, the USA and AUS got together to celebrate a milestone - my grandmother's 100th birthday. It was quite surreal for us all to be united at our family property, Kugures - here's a family pic from the 1930s, taken in the same place as the photo from last week. What leaves an impression looking at both photos, is the many and varied lifestories that are attached to each of the people in the pictures - behind each one of those faces is a completely original story. These tales intersect at some points, but these events, although they may be shared, are viewed through the prism of each individual, thus making each one an inimitable story of one's own. One common thread for all - Kugures - which has stood in this place for over 200 years.

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